I get lots of questions on my Facebook page about chicken feather loss, usually
asking how to stop it, but before any suggested solutions can be offered, the
underlying problem must be identified.
Feather loss and bald spots are often the result of stress-related conditions that must be fixed so that feather picking does not degenerate into a flock-wide problem. Chickens are cannibals and
they learn to pick from each other, so ending unwanted picking as soon as it begins
is critical to avoiding a bloody epidemic.
The following are some of the
more common causes of feather loss:
Bald spots are common in chickens during a molt. Molting is the natural, regular shedding of old feathers and growth of new ones. Molting occurs at fairly regular intervals for each chicken, and ordinarily begins as daylight hours shorten at the end of summer, however, it can occur at any time due to lack of water, food, or sudden change in normal lighting conditions. Broody hens tend to molt furiously after a period of broodiness Chickens molt in a predictable order beginning at the head and neck, proceeding down the back, breast, wings and tail.
Chickens are vulnerable to pecking during the period of re-growth due to the visible presence of blood in the newly emerging pin feathers.
| Emerging pin feathers contain a blood-filled vein that can attract unwanted attention fromother birds. |
SOLUTION
Learn the normal molting patterns of flock members so that bald spots are recognized as normal. Be watchful for broken pin feathers and pecking from other flock members. Separate any bird with damaged or bleeding pin feathers from the flock to prevent further injury.
| Freida is just re-growing feathers after a period of broodiness. Someone has been picking at her pin feathers as is evidenced by the broken feather shafts and blood. |
| Broody nest, feathered by the mother hen. |
BROODINESS
A broody hen is one that is
inspired to sit on a collection of eggs until she hatches chicks. She plucks
her own breast feathers to expose the warmth and moisture of her skin directly
to the eggs, hence the expression "to feather one's nest," meaning to
prepare for something.
After a period of broodiness, a hen’s hormones and her feeding and drinking routines return to normal, resulting in the loss of large amounts of feathers.
After a period of broodiness, a hen’s hormones and her feeding and drinking routines return to normal, resulting in the loss of large amounts of feathers.
SOLUTION
Break up broody hens that
will not be permitted to hatch eggs to stop the hormone roller-coaster and
prevent a prolonged interruption in normal eating, drinking and elimination
routines. After a hen has hatched chicks, provide her and her chicks with
starter ration, which is higher in protein that the layer feed she had been
eating prior to becoming broody and will help supply her with the protein and energy needed for feather
re-growth.
| The Broody Breaker: a wire-bottomed housing unit that discourages broody behavior. |
OVERCROWDING
A chicken is naturally
inclined to forage for food by scratching and pecking at the ground. When too
many chickens occupy too small a space, appropriate pecking opportunities are
limited, chickens get in each other’s way and on each other’s nerves.
Aggression can result from overcrowding which leads to feather picking and
cannibalism. Birds with little personal space will also begin picking at
novelties on one another such as a fleck of dirt, a feather shaft, or an
insect. Innocent exploration very easily results in small skin wounds. Chickens
are drawn to the sight and salty flavor of blood and one small skin wound can
quickly become a life-threatening injury inflicted by many chickens. By nature,
chickens are cannibalistic- they can and will kill another chicken by pecking
them to death.
SOLUTION
Space is one of the keys to
happy, healthy chickens. The bare minimum
space requirements are four square feet per bird in the coop and ten square
feet per bird in the run. If chickens will be confined primarily to the coop
and run daily, a much greater space allowance must be made to avoid feather picking
and boredom.
| Flock block substitute can serve as an occasional boredom buster. |
BOREDOM
Just as with children, bored
chickens will get into mischief. Chickens that are confined primarily to the
coop and run daily are more inclined to begin feather picking out of boredom
and curiosity than free-range chickens. Free-range chickens seldom run into trouble with boredom, but when inclement weather prohibits free-ranging, boredom busting activities can be offered.
| Foraging opportunities can be created for chickens that cannot free-range. |
SOLUTION
Same solution as overcrowding, above and introduce boredom-buster type
activities such as adding a bale of hay to the run. Chickens will spend hours
scratching and pecking through a hay bale. Sprinkle some high protein treats
into it such as black oil sunflower seeds makes the activity even more enticing. Grow sprouts or Chicken Salad to create foraging opportunities.Provide feed in crumbles form instead of pellets to extend the amount of time birds spend pecking feed to satisfy their appetites. Treats or snacks can be employed as an occasional distraction, but should not be relied upon primarily as entertainment. No more than 10% of a chicken’s daily diet should consist of extras other than layer feed.
| Adding green, high fiber treats such as kale, cabbage, etc. to a brooder or run can help alleviate boredom. |
Nutritional Deficiencies
Chickens that are deficient
in protein, sodium and/or other dietary essentials will seek out alternative
sources of the deficiency to satisfy their nutritional needs. That search will
often lead to pecking excessively at their own preening gland, the feathers
around it and feathers of other birds. Protein deficient birds may pick and eat
feathers. Feeding chickens too many treats/snacks/kitchen scraps can interfere
with their daily nutritional requirements, causing aggression and problem
picking behaviors.
| This is the preening gland, located at the base of the tail feathers. Oil in the gland is salty & hens will over-work the gland when deficient in certain essential nutrients. |
SOLUTION
Provide a nutritionally
complete feed appropriate for the age of the bird. Limit treats/snacks/extras
to 10% of their total daily diet. Treats should be limited to healthy, high protein, high fiber choices.
| Excessive or aggressive treading of a hen by a rooster cause feather loss. |
OVER-MATING
When a rooster assumes the
mating position on top of a hen, he balances himself by holding onto her neck
feathers with his beak and standing on her back (also known as treading). Over
time, treading can result in feather loss to both areas of the hen’s back.
Roosters can favor particular hens, giving them more attention than others,
thereby causing excessive damage to their feathers and skin.
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| Hen saddle being modeled by a Henbag. |
SOLUTION
Ensure a reasonable rooster-to-hen
ratio of no less than ten hens per rooster. Clip and file a rooster’s nails to
minimize feather and skin damage to the hen. House the rooster apart from the
hens or pen his favorite hens away from him when necessary. Purchase or make a
hen saddle for the affected hen. A hen saddle is a cloth cape worn by a hen for
the purpose of protecting her feathers and skin.
EXTERNAL PARASITES
Mites and poultry lice damage
the feathers and skin of chickens, often causing bald spots. Irritation from these
external parasites causes a bird to pick their own feathers and skin to obtain
relief.
Monitor the skin and feather health of birds routinely for external parasites. Provide dust bathing areas for birds
to maintain the health and appearance of their skin and feathers. Loose sand or
dirt is sufficient for dust bathing purposes. Treat all birds and coop when an infestation
is discovered.
Nest BOXES- Too Few or Too Public
Too few nest boxes: Hens will
fight over nest box space, using their beaks to express their preferences. A
shortage of nest boxes can result in feather picking and injuries.
Too public: When a hen lays an
egg, her cloaca becomes visible as it escorts the egg out of her body. The
sight of a red, moist cloaca can attract curious flock members who naturally
investigate by pecking the area. This can lead to picking, injury and
cannibalism.
SOLUTIONS
Make available one nest box
for every four hens in a flock. Keep the nesting area dimly lit and private.
Hang nest box curtains to ensure privacy, reduce stress and keep the cloaca
from public view during egg-laying.
![]() |
| Egg laying is a particularly vulnerable time for hens. Nest box curtains supply privacy and safety. |
TOO MUCH LIGHT
Lights that are too bright or
lights that are kept on too long can cause boredom, stress, aggression and
picking. Lights kept on in brooders 24 hours per day often result in chicks
picking themselves or each other.
SOLUTION
Limit the number of hours of
light hours to 16 per day for chickens of all ages. If using heat lamps in
brooders, only use red light bulbs. Ideally, a brooder will contain a radiant
heat source that does not employ light at all, such as the Brinsea EcoGlow,
which will allow chicks to benefit from natural diurnal sleep-wake cycles.
OVERHEATING, Particularly in Brooders
Just as people can become irritable and prickly in
the heat, so too can chickens. Chicks in brooders are at particular risk of
being overheated when heat lamps are employed and overheating can result in
agitation and pecking. The solution is to provide a large enough brooder to
permit chicks to escape the heat when needed and monitor the brooder
temperature. More about brooder heating here.
STRESS
Many of the above cited
conditions fall into the catch-all category of stress. Chickens do not manage stress well
and it can result in feather picking and cannibalism. Some of the most common
stressors include: housing changes, excessive heat, excessive light,
overcrowding, predator attacks, new flock members, lost flock members and changes of any type.
Any time a bird is injured
from feather picking or the skin is compromised, the bird must be housed separately from the flock until the injury is completely healed to avoid further injury
the flock.
Sources and additional reading:
Sources and additional reading:
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This post was shared with: Homestead Barn Hop, SaltTree, The Original Farmgirl Friday Blog Hop @Deborah Jean's Dandelion House
This post was shared with: Homestead Barn Hop, SaltTree, The Original Farmgirl Friday Blog Hop @Deborah Jean's Dandelion House




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Excellent post, thank you! I've already made a list of things to alter and tweak before any problems arise.
ReplyDeleteThanks for this great article. I needed it today! One of our hens has obviously been pecked by her sisters. With snow on the ground for quite a while, they have been literally "cooped up" more than normal and boredom has probably been an issue.
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure. I hope it helps!
ReplyDeleteHi, we have our very first set of chicks who are about 2 weeks old with a 5 week old thrown in the mix. I noticed a picture above with chicks at the water with a veg/herb hanging from above. At what age can you add veggies into the brooder (in addition to the starter food) and how do you do it (ex: does it need to hang form above?)?
ReplyDeleteThis should help with the when question, Shaie: http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/08/chicken-treats-guide-dont-love-your.html
ReplyDeleteWhat a great blog! I'm so glad I found you. Thanks for the advice on snacks for chickens, I really needed that.
ReplyDeleteHi, we had 6 hens and 1 rooster last Sept. We now have 2 hens. They are dying 1 at a time. There seems to be small areas of feathers out, and we noticed some seemed to be breathing heavy within about 24hrs of dying. We are only putting this together as the last one died today. They seem fine otherwise and then 1 just seems to die. They have appropriate housing, a run, water, warmth during the winter, feed and I just don't know what to do anymore. Any thoughts?
ReplyDeleteThanks Kathy. I had this problem. It's tough to get them to stop once they develop the habit. The hen saver/saddle was the saving grace for my hen. I tried everything else, blue kote, anti-pick, lots of room, meal worms for protein and boredom busters. I even gave 3 hens to good homes to give them more room per square foot. They still pick but not as bad. My little hen that wears the saddle is just as happy as can be now and doesn't take any mess from anyone anymore. I think they've created a monster (not really, she's a sweetie). My question is - How long can she wear the hen saver? She's seems fine with it and I'm almost afraid to take it off of her now that she's healed since I think it makes her feels secure. Have you used these? Thanks
ReplyDeletegreat article very good info:)
ReplyDelete