WHAT IS COCCIDIOSIS?
Coccidiosis (aka: cocci) is a
common intestinal disease caused by several species of parasites. The parasites
rapidly multiply, damaging the intestinal lining, preventing chickens from
absorbing nutrients from their food.
The microscopic cooties that
cause cocci are everywhere. (of course that's a technical term) Chickens can be affected by cocci even with the
best coop sanitation and flock management practices. The key to keeping
chickens healthy is learning to control the spread of the disease, recognizing
the symptoms when they occur, obtaining a definitive diagnosis and knowing how to treat an affected
bird.
SYMPTOMS
SYMPTOMS
The most common symptoms of cocci are:
- diarrhea and/or blood and/or mucous in droppings
- lethargy, listlessness
- pale skin color
- loss of appetite
- weight loss in older chickens
- failure of chicks to grow/thrive
- progression of symptoms can be gradual or rapidly result in death, particularly in chicks
Microscopic eggs, called oocysts, are ingested, then multiply in the intestines and are expelled in droppings. The eggs can be carried by wild birds, chickens from different flocks, on a person’s shoes, clothing or equipment. Cocci is commonly transmitted through dirty water or contaminated food. There are a number of species of Coccidia that affect chickens and immunity can be acquired by gradual exposure over time.
An example of how easily flocks can become infected:
Farmer Fred’s flock appears healthy and is, possessing immunity to the particular species of oocysts living in his yard. Fred finishes up his morning coop chores and walks over to farmer Betty’s chicken yard with his shovel to help her dig some fence posts. Oocysts traveled with him on the soles of his boots, his shovel and his clothes and were deposited in Betty's yard. The grass contaminated with the eggs was eaten by Betty’s grazing hens and they got sick with coccidiosis within a week of the visit. Fred brought home oocysts from Betty's yard with him to his hens and they began dying. Betty’s flock had not no immunity to the cocci species in Fred's flock and vice versa.
An example of how easily flocks can become infected:
Farmer Fred’s flock appears healthy and is, possessing immunity to the particular species of oocysts living in his yard. Fred finishes up his morning coop chores and walks over to farmer Betty’s chicken yard with his shovel to help her dig some fence posts. Oocysts traveled with him on the soles of his boots, his shovel and his clothes and were deposited in Betty's yard. The grass contaminated with the eggs was eaten by Betty’s grazing hens and they got sick with coccidiosis within a week of the visit. Fred brought home oocysts from Betty's yard with him to his hens and they began dying. Betty’s flock had not no immunity to the cocci species in Fred's flock and vice versa.
PREVENTION
- Vaccinate day old chicks against coccidiosis. (many hatcheries offer this service at a nominal charge)
- Provide medicated starter feed to chicks that are not vaccinated for cocci. (the vaccine and the medication in chick starter feed taken together renders chicks unprotected)
- Keep brooders and coops clean and dry. (warm, wet conditions such as soiled, damp, brooder bedding, provide the ideal environment for eggs to multiply quickly).
- Provide the cleanest water possible. (very seriously consider employing poultry nipple waterers)
- Don’t overcrowd living quarters (provide a minimum of: 4 square feet per adult bird inside coops, 10 square feet per bird in the run, and 6 square inches of brooder flooring for week old chicks)
- Ensure adequate coop ventilation to promote dry litter.
- Promote acquire immunity by introducing chicks gradually to a properly maintained chicken yard and existing flock by 4 weeks old.
- Practice good bio-security, including quarantining new flock members for a minimum of two weeks, restricting access to your chicken yard by fellow chicken-keepers, not sharing equipment with fellow chicken-keepers.
- Keep waterfowl separate from chickens (spilled water + warmth=ideal conditions for breeding cocci)
- Don't throw feed or treats on the ground where it can become contaminated.
The only way to properly
diagnose cocci in living chickens is to have a fecal float test performed by a
vet. Most veterinarians will gladly perform this test for a nominal fee, if
any, even if they do not treat chickens.
The sooner cocci is identified, the sooner treatment can
begin and the lower the risk of death. It is extremely helpful to have a
droppings board in the coop in order to make a daily droppings assessment. Abnormal or bloody droppings should be tested.
TREATMENT
When one chicken is diagnosed
with cocci, the entire flock must be treated. The chickens that produced the droppings in the following photos were diagnosed with cocci. Following the advice of my vet, I
treated my flock with 9.5cc of liquid
amprolium (brand name Corid) per gallon of water for 4 days. The droppings were free of blood
within 24 hours of the first dose, however, in 2
weeks, they were again medicated for 3 additional days. (The vet indicated that given the
life cycle of Eimeria, no bugs would be present to kill less than 2
weeks after stopping treatment, hence the 2 week break in dosing.)
POST-TREATMENT
AFTER the treatment for cocci is completed, particularly when using amprolium, a vitamin supplement should be given to replace the Vitamin B1 lost during treatment. A product such as Nutri-Drench will do the trick.
POST-TREATMENT
AFTER the treatment for cocci is completed, particularly when using amprolium, a vitamin supplement should be given to replace the Vitamin B1 lost during treatment. A product such as Nutri-Drench will do the trick.
Questions regarding ‘egg withdrawal periods” always arise when drugs are given to laying hens. Discuss the matter with your vet and use your best judgment. (that's really helpful, isn't it?)
Further
reading and sources:
http://www.millerhatcheries.com/Information/Diseases/coccidiosis.htm
http://www.thepoultrysite.com/publications/2/Coccidiosis%20Management/46/drugs
http://www.thepoultrysite.com/publications/2/Coccidiosis%20Management/46/drugs
The Chicken Health Handbook, Damerow, Gail. Storey Publishing, 1994.
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This post is shared with: Down Home @Tilly's Nest, Homestead Barn Hop @Homestead Revival, Weekly Top Shot @The View from Right Here Wicked Good @The Wilderness Wife


Thanks for the info!! It was my understanding that cocci meds were sulfer based. Therefore, if you choose to eat any eggs from treated birds you should NOT have a sulfer allergy. Selling or giving away these eggs would be unethical since a sulfer allgery is common. Two weeks was the suggested period after the last dose was given to prevent any reaction to the sulfer.
ReplyDeleteAs long as you are aware of the risks, and you know you do not react to sulfer, it is ok to eat the eggs. I have had no issues with eating them, but I didn't eat any eggs for a week since I wanted the meds to work and eliminate the cocci risk.
I personally don't have a sulfer allergy, nor does anyone in my family - pfew!
If I am wrong - please do tell. I read a lot of info and it was supported by veteranarians so far as I know.
I have seen a treatment for the yard for several cooties in the yard such as Parvo/distemper/ etc and I believe it is for Cocci as well. I saw this at Tractor Supply. If anyone has any info on that I'd like to know your thoughts. I live in an area that is rather humid and keeping dry coops is frustrating at best. Plenty of flitting wild birds to cary the crud and EVERYBODY has chickens so going anywhere means I'm bring it home. Productions farms abound here and there is no simple way to prevent the spread of it. As you would think, production farms are nasty places and the birds that come from them and end up on the plate are loaded with cooties and are generally miserable. I'm not a vegetarian, but a fan of healthy food = healthy mind and body. I can't eat my birds, just can't do it. However I understand the reality of livestock and would love to see the production entities cleaned up and held to a higher standard.
So any info on preventing cocci and other cooties is always appreciated and I am more than greatful for your postings.
Not all cocci drugs are sulfer based, but some are. Amprolium is not a sulfa drug. More on that here: http://www.thepoultrysite.com/publications/2/Coccidiosis%20Management/46/drugs
ReplyDeleteThanks for the poop photos! I often read about maladies and panic thinking, "Oh no! Maybe my chicky babies have that!" It's nice to see a clear example so I don't freak out and overreact. Thanks! :)
ReplyDeleteGreat info, thank you!
ReplyDeleteYou're welcome, Holly!
ReplyDeleteThank you.
ReplyDeleteI have lost many birds to Cocci (in my earlier chicken keeping days). I know now how to watch for it and to keep birds treated. I have not yet tried the vaccine, but I am considering it. Thank you for this wonderful information. Hopefully this will help so that others do not lose their birds.
ReplyDeleteKATHY WOODY, THANK YOU KATHY FOR THE INFO AND PICTURE. WHERE DO I BUY THIS MEDICINE FOR MY CHICKENS. DOES TRACTOR SUPPLY CARRY IT? I HAVE LOST MANY CHICKENS THIS SUMMER AND IT HAS JUST ABOUT KILLED ME. I WENT TO A NEW DOCTOR I FOUND, THANK GOD, AND HE SAID THEY HAD AIR SAC DISEASE. HE HAS BEEN PUTTING THE SICK CHICK ON ANIT-BIOTICS AND TREATING THE REST OF THE FLOCK, TOO. THE ONLY THING IS, IT KEEPS RECURRING IN DIFFERENT CHICKENS JUST RIGHT ON AND ON. I KEEP THE CAGES EXTRA CLEAN, CLEAN WATER, CLEAN FOOD BOWLS. I AM TRULY AT MY WITS END.
ReplyDeleteThat's awful, Kathy. I'm sorry to hear it. I am going to have to defer to your vet though. If you have questions about the problem in your flock, that's the place to consult.
ReplyDeleteAs for the issue of cocci, Corid is available at Tractor Supply; it's in the cow aisle though because it is labeled for use in calves.
Do you have to throw all the eggs away during treatment? Thanks
ReplyDeleteAng
Great info! It is always fun examining poop!
ReplyDeleteThanks so very much for the oppertunity on another wonderfull giveaway! You do such wonderfull things. :) GL everyone!
ReplyDeleteLove your blog posts
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteI subscribed to your blog through Google Connect and Networked Blogs. I really enjoy your blog. Thank you for sponsoring so many giveaways.
ReplyDeleteWOOT WOOT!! My brood would LOVE a new feeder. Thanks for the great information on backyard chicken farming. So useful!!!
ReplyDeleteCould definitely use another feeder!
ReplyDeleteGood info; I hope I never need to use it. My one silkie hen has frequent soft smelly brown droppings could that be a problem?
ReplyDeleteThank you for the info.
ReplyDeleteHi Kathy! We had some chicks with cocci this summer, lost a couple, but got it under control fast using the same methods you suggest!
ReplyDeleteThanks for all the information. Please add me to running for the feeder.
ReplyDeleteThat video was very sad. Hopefully no one will have to go through losing their birds this way.
ReplyDeleteLove all the ideas and even tried a few recipes for our girls.
ReplyDeletethanks for information.
ReplyDeleteThanks for this great information about Coccidiosis, it's causes, & treatment. As always, I'm learning so much from your blog!
ReplyDeleteAlways worried about these things even though I keep everything cleaner than clean. The video and pictures helped for future reference.
ReplyDeletethanks for the info good to know if it ever happens
ReplyDeleteAlways finding more things about chickens!yes enter me please.
ReplyDeleteI hear ya, Lisa. We do the best we can and hope for the best.
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure, Erica. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteYou bet! Thanks for stopping in!
ReplyDeleteCool! Thanks. :)
ReplyDeleteIsn't it awful? Unfortunately, it happens a lot when people aren't informed of the importance of good brooder sanitation and not overcrowding. :(
ReplyDeleteEasy to ready information, thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks Mike. I'm not able to add you, but you can choose from the subscription options in the upper, left-hand sidebar of my blog.
ReplyDeleteI'm so glad you were able to get a handle on it, Katie!
ReplyDeleteMy pleasure!
ReplyDeleteThere's a pretty wide range of normal and abnormal droppings, Earl. Here is another blog post that may help answer your question: http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/02/whats-scoop-on-chicken-poop-digestive.html
ReplyDeleteWhen we know better, we do better. (Maya Angelou)
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment, Teresa. :)
My pleasure. :)
ReplyDeletelove the artical, always need more information about the world of raising chickens...please enter me in the contest...Thank you..:)
ReplyDeleteGreat for a beginner. Following NB
ReplyDeleteAlright something else YAH! Im entering.
ReplyDeleteAlways good information. Do you have any tips to quiet down a noisy rooster?
ReplyDeleteThanks Chicken Chick for all the chicken info! You got me thru the first prolapse and now I am dealing with another. And thanks for the chance to win chicken stuff!
ReplyDeleteI like the format, the information, and the pictures. Thanks!!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for this information. It's always scary when something goes wrong with our feathered friends, but being prepared is half the battle! Good thing to keep Corid and Vitamin supplements on hand for these "events"...
ReplyDeleteI don't wish it to happen but now I know what to look for. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteGreat pictures & advice. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteAlways something new to learn about chickens. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteVery good info, thanks!
ReplyDeletevery good information for new chicken owners as well as old ones.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the information, I hope to never have to deal with this though!
ReplyDeleteLots of good info and good lookin' feeder.
ReplyDeleteGreat Article! Thank you.
ReplyDeleteOh no! Same chicken or a different hen?
ReplyDeleteHope I never have to deal with it, but great info on what to look for!
ReplyDeleteThanks! I wish I did, the best you can do is to sound-proof his living quarters. I used to bring my rooster into the garage and drape something over the top so the rabbit hutch would stay darker a little longer in the mornings b/c I couldn't keep him due to neighbor preferences. There really is not anything you can do to keep them from crowing.
ReplyDeleteYou're entered. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteThanks for following, Misty!
ReplyDeleteGreat article, but scary.
ReplyDeletethanks chicken chick would not know what to do with out you you are awsome my chickens love you :)
ReplyDeleteThank you and I agree. But caught early, it's very easily treated.
ReplyDeleteYou're so sweet, Kate. Thank you. (say hi to your peeps for me)
ReplyDeletesent you another blog reader today, after they came out to pick up some chickens for their daughter last night. great to have a well spoken advocate to share!
ReplyDeleteLots of great information.
ReplyDeleteSince I now have poop boards I too can check for the signs@TheChickenChick:disqus
ReplyDeleteCongratulations Judy! You have won the feeder from EBERLY BARNS! Please email me with your shipping address and we'll get it right out to you!
ReplyDeletedifferent hen--first one is laying again and doing beautifully
ReplyDeleteAlways learn something when I read your articles. And could use a feeder in the last coop before winter sets in good.
ReplyDeleteI'm surprised that you have another in the flock, but am glad that #1 is doing well!
ReplyDeleteThat's great to know, Kathy!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much, I appreciate the vote of confidence!
ReplyDeleteThe pics were gross but very much needed so we will know what it looks like. Thankyou
ReplyDeleteAgreed and you're welcome, Wendy! :)
ReplyDeleteHi Kathy, Can chickens over a year old get this, im noticing a pinky colored feces, but they are not chicks much older.... Many are mixed ages and the ones I think are the culprits are some new ones I purchased(rescued) from a yucky farm..never doing that again.
ReplyDeletethank you
Angie
beavercreekhomested@live.ca
Absolutly, Angie. Pink colored droppings aren't the same as bloody droppings though- you'll know it when you see it.
ReplyDeleteAs long as you follow the brooder cleanliness guidelines and do not raise them on wire flooring, they will develop an immunity naturally. It's the chicks that spend their days walking in their own poop in a warm, wet brooder that are at high risk for cocci. Just keep an eye on their droppings.
ReplyDeleteWhen I ordered my chickens, I paid extra for a vaccination for Marek's disease. Is this the same thing?
ReplyDeleteThe vaccine for Marek's disease is not at all the same as the cocci vaccine.
ReplyDeletecocci man that scares me ok so I raised my rooster and 7 hens for 6weeks now do I have anything to worrie about??????? they r on medicated food as well bread and salads given clean water every day with olive oil and cider vinegar they do have runny poo sometimes but no blood they r active and eat like pigs am I just being paranoid??????? I'm gonna go purchase corid as well vita b1 - nutri drench HELP
ReplyDelete